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The legless cage is now installed and centered over a dahlia plant, and any associated drip or soak irrigation, with the LARGE ring on the soil surface. The large footprint associated with having this large ring on the soil surface and the plant growing through the small ring at the top, act together to change the plant cage from a wobbling, top heavy ice cream cone into a mechanically sound plant support. |
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Next, the modified legs are driven into the soil with the hooked ends gripping the large ring and holding it to the soil surface. The modified legs should be inserted at an angle to resist the lifting forces from strong winds. (And yes; the hammer is a necessity in the clay soils we encounter in Colorado.) |
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Finally, an identification tag is attached to the top ring on the installed cage where it provides easy visibility to grower or visitor alike. The tag is attached using plastic coated twist ties cut long enough so they can be transferred directly to the root clump when it is dug in the fall. Special Note: Anyone adopting the cage support system would be well advised to search for a hay hook or a long handled meat hook to use in the fall to pull the hook ended legs from the ground. The long handle really helps the back. |
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Notes on a Personal PracticeDue to our short growing season in Colorado, we personally take some gambles with the weather and set out started dahlia plants about May 15th. To manage the risks associated with this practice we cover the modified dahlia cages with a florist product called plant sleeves held in place with clothes pins. The plant sleeve is no wall-of-water, but it does provide limited frost protection, a warmer growing environment and some hail protection. |
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For an actual view of the aesthetics of using the cage support system, visit the McAllister Garden in our gardens section.
| Home | Go to Dahlia Support Techniques | Go to Dahlia Culture |